Normally a poly finish is urethane mixed with a polymer. My two cents' worth - try at least 4 coats of the danish oil you're using (just go until you get the effect you want), wet sanding, then finish by buffing with 2 coats of some sort of wax product. I've seen people apply anywhere from 3-6 coats. Thank you GF for making such wonderful products." Be brutal. I’m not a fan of super high gloss so I think you are on the right track. Any product claim, statistic, quote or other representation about a product or service should be verified with the manufacturer, provider or party in question. P.s on behalf of everyone I would like to thank you for all of the time you put into the cause of helping other woodworkers. Finishing with tung oil is wonderful. It’s been redesigned to be a kneehole style desk and was given a new walnut top by The Furniture Fix I finished the body in Lamp Black Milk Paint and sealed that gorgeous walnut with Arm-R-Seal oil based poly by General Finishes." Minimally you’re looking at a couple of day. Instead of stains, which can obscure the wood, try liquids like ammonia, vinegar, intense tea, boiled onion skins or nutshells. 35 $33.81 $33.81. I think that is the most daunting task for most novice woodworkers. Nature is indeed beautiful don’t mask it, enhance it. Does it just make for a lighter final coat? Reminds me to get off my butt and do something more complicated next ;-), Rats, I knew I had something else to add…. 49. Here's three different finishes on Walnut: Waterlox. And sometimes stain. Waterlox looks amazing on Walnut, but I'm a huge fan of the stuff, so take it with a grain of salt. We use General Finish Arm R Seal on all our live edge slabs, bartops, mantles, and furniture pieces. It’s number 371 on the list….today.). I used the same process on the bench linked above. jason stillwater, Ran across a back-issue of Wood magazine, that had a recipie included for a “black oak stain.”, (I blew past it during the initial read because I was more interested in the articles bigger than one page…). First thing you could do is put a coat of wax on and buff until yog get the shine you want. + How To Apply Arm R Seal Finish To Wood 01 Dec 2020 Get free shipping on qualified King Beds or buy Furniture products with Buy Online Pick Up in Store. If you are looking for a good book on finishing, I have been very impressed with Bob Flexnerâ. Let me address a few of your questions first. share. Arm-R-Seal Oil-Based Topcoats are made with the highest-quality urethane resin, making them extremely durable and long-lasting. I finished my coffee table by sanding to 200 then used a coat of Bullseye dewaxed shellac, sanded to 220, another coat of Bullseye, applied crystalac (Rockler) grain filler, sanded to 320, applied Minwax wipe on semigloss poly, sanded to 400, then coats of the wipe on with 000 steel wool between coats until the desired finish. Top it off with your final sheen. save hide report. So here’s my perspective on the finish (a combination of biased opinions and fact). And just an FYI, three authors that have never steered me wrong are Bob Flexner, Jeff Jewitt, and Michael Dresdner. Actually high gloss is the best final finish for the exterior door of a building, especially if it’s high quality PAINT and not just a varnish. The other product I'd consider is Waterlox. I understand the difference between a varnish and a blend. I assume the “Wipe On Arm R Seal” is just a thinned version (like most wipe on polys), but I wanted to clarify that you are indeed suggesting wiping on the normal Arm R Seal, not the “Wipe On Arm R Seal”. Do your research to find a good one. Here's three different finishes on Walnut: Waterlox. Arm-R-Seal Oil Based Topcoat. Now lets say you did use a less expensive wood and you wanted to make it look like walnut. Now for the criticism. In the first experiment, we applied all the finishes to a walnut plank and compared the looks, as seen in the photo. urethane is part of the equation that makes up the varnish in it. I want a product that gives the least amount of bleed on walnut. It also builds thickness very very slowly. Real good advice. I also came here to recommend tung oil. Satin Arm-r-seal applied exactly how this video taught me to. More exotic chemicals, like potassium dichromate, yield even more extraordinary reults and, in fact, were used on mahogany in the old days. Arrives before Christmas. Lots of coats of shellac can get a really nice look as well. Unless, you have to get some special effect that the wood you want won’t provide (like my customer who wants to hide the oak grain and make it look like dark mahogany). Storage. Sure, some repeated basic material, but each has a great take on how best to use each product and different tips to help novices like me keep the project out of the smoker. Given this, please assume that any links leading you to products or services are affiliate links that we will receive compensation from. I have restored antiques for 36 years. It also lets people know that this piece is real walnut and not just layers of color on top of a cheaper piece of wood. 66% Upvoted. Arm-r-seal is one of the quickest oil-based options--4 coats 12 hours apart is over with in 2 days. :) But to answer your question directly, you usually can coat a cured Danish Oil finish with a water-based topcoat. About ten coats, rubbed in with wet sandpaper (600 and 1200 grit). Your email address will not be published. Thank you for making this possible. One or two coats won't do it. I heard the Minwax goes on lighter, and I'm not sure if that's an issue for me or not. I went into more detail on the finish process here. Marc, I always like what you said in one of your earlier videos–keep it simple. I see no problem top-coating with Arm-R-Seal semi gloss. Planning a project that will involve it. A few more days, then I rub it with wax + steel wool to even things out. But it's hard to get a good feel for how it looks from pictures and at $11+ for a pint it's not cheap if decided no to go with it. We use cookies to give you the best online experience. There was no going back for him, so what’s with the gratuitous criticism? I especially liked Arm-R-Seal for table tops -- since it is supposed to be the tougher of the two, and of course, it is easily renewable (which is true of any wipe-on finish). Kudos to you! Aren’t you being a little harsh on a book you haven’t read? Fortunately, I did a video on the topic. Re: General Finishes Arm-R-Seal (Satin) 10-08-2017, 01:04 PM. I had to laugh aloud while reading the original fool-proof finishing recipe because I bet I’d get lost halfway through it. And after several coats of semi-gloss, adding a coat of gloss can make the surface look a little odd. It takes several coats of an oil finish to get it to build the lustre. You paid good money for that wood, and with that finish, you could have purchased alder at 1/4 the price and the final result would be nearly identical. Minwax wipe on poly is available at the big box stores all over. 1 Photo. Like I said, a little odd. Arm-R-Seal topcoats are made with only the highest-quality urethane resin, making them extremely durable and long lasting. It doesn't build in the same way that varnishes do. I'm going to be applying poly to a walnut butcher block. For what it's worth, I use either the #4 or #5 option from this list of home shop finishes and I get the finish I want, which sounds close to the finish you're going for. By sealing with shellac twice, before we even add the oil based stain, we can’t expect there to be too much of a color shift. But finding that sweet spot can be tricky. Grant in Iowa Alan, I have had good results, and good longevity from about six coats (early ones brushed with a foam brush, and last few wiped on) of General Finishes arm-r-seal top coat. It usually takes 3-4 coats to build up any gloss, and looks spectacular after about 7. Still looks brand new. However the beautiful cherry wood was totally masked by all the color that was put on top of it. Mark you are the best and Chris, I wish you the best. I cant agree more with the keeping it simple, especially for new woodworkers. I just haven’t had the pleasure of reading her book so I can’t make a personal recommendation on it. Finishing is a lot like cooking: the more crap you throw in, the less you can discern and appreciate the individual ingredients. Each coat has to be applied very thin for it to dry properly. In the case of arm r seal it is urethane mixed with alkyd resin. Unless you are sure the table top is solid wood, be careful when sanding to make sure you don't go through veneer. $28.49 $ 28. Although it dosent add much color at all. I’m a firm believer that finishing that you have to “build” a finish just like building a project and that it should take almost as much time as the project to do. Very nice project, though. This article was inspired by a question from. There is only one Arm-R-Seal on the market and it comes in a wiping formula. Might pick up Minwax and put a coat on the bottom first to see if I like it. General Finishes High Performance Water Based Topcoat, 1 Quart, Satin. Features: For simple 2-step finishing, wipe on General Finishes Seal-A-Cell for a lustrous finish. So my question to you is am I able to pop the grain of the tray with Danish oil , letting it cure (how long is that) and then applying the general exterior water based finish over top. Based on his recommendations, I bought books from all three and all three were very well done. You didn't mention use of any stain so you are clear here as well. I haven’t read Teri’s book so I don’t know how closely you followed the recipe. Since I jumped in full force for the piece I decided to do the same with the finishing. I haven't tried doing that method with Danish oil, but I know it works with linseed oil as well, so presume it will work too. But hopefully this clears things up a bit and you’ll be better prepared for your next creation.
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